How To Make A T-Shirt Quilt: For Dummies

Good morning everyone!  As many of you know from my posts on Facebook, I finished my t-shirt quilt!  It took a lot of time and patience, but it was so worth it!  Several of you have been asking how I did it, so I wanted to write a blog post, with step-by-step instructions.  When I was making mine, I used other people’s blog instructions for clarification, but many of them were confusing or only geared towards experienced sewers!  So that made them difficult to follow sometimes, and I ended up having to ask the employees at Joann Fabrics for help.  But they, along with the blogs and tips from my mom who used to sew a lot, I managed to put mine together with few mishaps! Image Let’s get started!  I’m going to tell you exactly what I did for mine, although there are a few variations that you could do.  I just found this way to be the simplest and easiest.  In this tutorial, I’m going to assume that you know the very basics of sewing.  Like, how to thread the machine and how to line things up evenly. Supplies: -30 shirts -2.5 yards fleece (you only use about 2 yards, but I would buy extra just in case you mess up) -8 yards extra wide single fold bias tape (they come in 3 yd. packs at Joann’s, so buy 3 packs) -10 yards apparel interface material (it’s really thin, the thinnest interfacing you can get at Joann’s) -iron and ironing board -thread that matches the fleece -thread that can be used to sew the shirts together like black, grey, or white (it won’t really be seen unless you mess up!) -thread that matches the bias tape -good scissors for cutting (I recommend the brand Fiskar’s) -PINS!  Tons and tons of pins.  Your entire quilt depends on your use of these pins. Instructions: 1. Pick out 30 t-shirts.  I only used 26 I think, because I used both the back and front of a few shirts.  But basically, you need 30 different pieces of shirt for the quilt squares. 2. Lay out the shirts in a 5 x 6 fashion that is appealing to the eye and take a picture of it. Image 3. Cut out your shirts in the correct sized quilt square you want.  Use a piece of cardboard as your guide, and trace the cardboard onto every shirt and cut them out.  I actually used two different sized squares – the shirts in the 2nd and 5th row are shorter than the other rows but they are the same horizontal width.  I did this because of the design on the shirt was small, although having two different sizes did make it a big more tricky and in retrospect I shouldn’t have done it.  So, use one piece of cardboard in a size that you like, and stick with it! *Edit on 1/21/15: I now use a piece of clear fiberglass from Home Depot that I cut with box cutters to be the size I wanted.  It’s much easier to use than the cardboard because the shirt sizes are more consistent and I can see through the glass to make sure I’m centering the logo!  In addition, during this step, I don’t cut the shirts out exactly.  I usually leave a little extra, put the interfacing on (see next step), and then trim them both for a clean edge.  This also saves a ton of time!* 4. Iron on the interfacing to the back of each shirt. Image a.) Lay out a shirt facedown on your ironing board.  I did 2 at a time to speed things up, but 1 at a time is fine. b.) Put the interfacing on top of the t-shirt.  Interfacing has 1 smooth side and 1 bumpy side.  The bumpy side should be facing down, against the t-shirt.  The textured side is actually hundreds of little glue dots that stick to the material once heat is added. c.) With the iron at the highest setting but without any steam (i.e. don’t add water just turn it on), iron the back of the interfacing to the shirt.  Be sure to get the shirt corners really well or else the interfacing will fall off and that’s just annoying. The picture above is what it looked like after I ironed the interfacing on, but before I trimmed out each quilt square. 5. Trim the extra interfacing off each shirt. Image This step is fun because it’s not frustrating or time-consuming – the shirts are now stiff because of the interfacing and it’s so easy to trim them.  Enjoy doing this, because it’s going to get difficult pretty soon! Now you have 30 beautiful fabric squares and it’s time to sew! 6. Sew the horizontal rows of the squares together. Here is where your pins come in handy. a.) Take your first two squares in the top row and lay them side by side. b.) Flip the square on the right on top of the square on the left, so that the “right” sides of both shirts are touching each other. c.) Pin along the right side of the square, going through both layers of fabric.  Open up the fabric to double check that each shirt is where it should be (i.e. not upside down and pinned together on the correct side). d.) Sew along these pins.  I used the presser foot of the machine as my guide, so it was about an 1/8″ seam.  Make sure to take out each pin before you sew over it or else the needle in the machine will bend or break and that’s not good. e.) repeat this process, adding onto your two connected squares until you have completed the top row of your quilt. f.) repeat for each of the six rows. 7. Iron the seams in every row open.  Use your pins to hold the seams down and make them nice and flat.  Be careful not to burn the interfacing off and don’t melt your pin heads.  Basically, I used the tip of the iron and carefully flattened each seam.  Yes, it’s very tedious, but necessary. Image 8. Sew the 6 rows together. a.) Take the top two rows. b.) Flip the second row on top of the first row so you’re looking at the back of the second row squares. c.) Pin along the long bottom edge, doing your best to line up both layers of squares.  If you look at my completed picture, I’m sure you can see that mine aren’t perfect but it’s hardly noticeable. Image d.) Repeat for the middle 2 rows, and the bottom 2 rows.  So now you should have 3 bigger pieces, 2 x 5 each.  In the picture above, only the top two rows are connected. e.) Put together the three large pieces using the same process as before (i.e. flipping the second piece onto the top, pinning and then sewing.) Congratulations!  You now have your quilt squares all sewn together! Image 9. Iron the rest of the seams open.  It’s like Step #7, except do the long horizontal seams. Image This is what the back of my quilt looked like before I ironed down the horizontal rows. 10. Put fleece flat on ground.  Place your quilt on top, making sure both layers are as smooth as possible. 11. Find the middle two vertical columns.  Pin down both these two seams.  So in mine, it was the left and right sides of the shirt starting with the blue Africa shirt, then going down to the yellow pickle shirt, then the black and red orchestra shirt, and so on.   When attaching the fleece, you always want to start in the longest middle part and work your way out so it remains as flat as possible, but since there are an even number of vertical lines, pin the two middle at the same time. 12. Sew along these vertical lines. Image This is where your job gets super frustrating and time-consuming, because you have to adjust the material about every five seconds.  You don’t want it to get too heavy or stretched in one direction or else the quilt won’t lay flat on the fleece and it’ll be all distorted.  Fleece is stretchy, so be careful! Repeat the pinning and sewing process for each vertical row.  There’s 4 total. 13. Pin and sew along the horizontal rows in the same fashion as in Step #12.  Start with the centermost row and do that first, then work your way to the outside. Now the back of your quilt should have a very nice grid on it!  And your quilt for the most part should be connected to the fleece, except for the edges. Image In this picture you can see the pretty grid!  Doing all this also adds nice thickness to the quilt overall. 14. Cut off the excess fleece around the outside so that all the edges are flush.  Again, pin everything beforehand so both layers stay nice and flat. Image 15. Keeping the pins around the entire outside edges, sew a 1/8″ seam around the entire quilt. Image As you can see from the picture, I did each edge separately, then turned the quilt around and did the next edge.  Don’t forget to pull the pins out before you sew over them. 16. Now it’s time for the last part – the bias tape!  Take your bias tape and fold it equally around the outside edges, with half of it on the bottom and half on the top so it covers up all the ragged t-shirt and fleece edges.  It’s tricky to make it even the entire way, but just be patient and you can do it! 17. Sew the bias tape onto the quilt.  As much as you can, sew along the inside edge of the bias tape to create a nice rounded edge on all sides of the quilt. Image Congratulations!!  You finished! Image Now go show off your creation to your friends and family, and be warm!


  1. Your quilt is beautiful! Thanks for making this tutorial! I’m sure it was partly as frustrating to think about and write out each step as it was to iron and pin all of that! I am attempting a quilt for my cousin using her mama’s t-shirts (she is no longer with us). I think this will help immensely and I love the simplicity of the quilt design…i’m not a huge fan of the block borders you see in a lot of them. Thanks so much! Great job, it looks super cozy!!

  2. I really like this! How long did it take you and roughly how much would you say the materials cost?
    I have a ton of t shirts that I really want to make into a quilt, and I’ve heard having a professional do it costs about $800!!

    • Thank you! I worked on this almost every day for about 2 weeks for an hour or two each time. I also didn’t know what I was doing sometimes and had to make it up as I went, so that added extra time! It cost about $40 for the interfacing, fleece, bias tape, and thread. I charge $80 for making these for my friends now (and it takes me much less time)! I would definitely not pay more than $120 for a quilt. Good luck!

  3. I am going to try to do this with my daughters outgrown baby clothes that have a few stains. I hate to just throw them away and I feel Like I could put them to use by doing this. I hope it turns out as good as yours did. 🙂

  4. My brother passed away and I was hoping to make a quilt like this for my mom using his shirts. Im not big in following directions when it comes to sewing.. I like flying of the seam of my britches… but mostly because everything is always geared to experienced people…but this seems completely do-able :):) Thank you!!

    • Hi Kelly, I don’t know the exact dimensions, but they’re about the size of the front of a large cereal box. However, it’s up to you to decide because it depends on what designs are on your shirts….you’ll want them bigger if the shirts have large logos, or smaller if they’re smaller logos. If you’re concerned about the fleece, you can always buy more than you think you need and use the extra for a pillow or another project!

  5. Okay, so I don’t sew….I glue!
    But I very much enjoyed reading your clear and frank instructions and wish I had the patience to do such a project with my daughter’s tennis tournament shirts.
    Very nice work!

  6. I absolutely love this! This definitely seems like a college-girl tutorial which I need because the only bit I know about sewing is the small basics I learned from a semester of sewing class! I can’t wait to make a quilt out of all my old high school senior shirts & from studying abroad! Thanks for the simplicity!

  7. Thanx for this great tutorial – I am making a tshirt quilt for my son who is in the Navy – all his high school football, wrestling etc shirts so he has a nice warm cover for his shipboard bed

  8. I love the simple instructions! Do you leave the interfacing on the back of the shirts when you put the fleece back on? Does it have a crinkle feeling or does it matter when you wash it? I feel confident about doing a quilt, but am unsure about that part.

    • Good questions! Yes, you leave the interface on. The extra later gives the shirts support so they don’t stretch out when you’re piecing them tigether. And theres no crinkle to it. 🙂 the only non-cozy part about it is if you have shirts that have textured fabric paint or something. The interfacing is sandwiched between the shirts and the fleece so you don’t even know its there. Good luck!

  9. I am in process of making a Tshirt for my new son in law out of his team shirts from College. This answered A LOT of questions! I am making all the blocks the same size and I think that will help. I am also using a soft light weight denim for the back and I do think that will help the “stretching while sewing” issue. I don’t have a lot of patience for that! Thank you so much!

  10. OMG! Your quilt is awesome. I just wrote down all your instructions,I want to make a family quilt. I don’t have a sewing machine but I will soon,and I have never sew anything,but I want to learn. If you ever have any tips for me please email me. Thank you

  11. Hello! I’m in the process of making my own t-shirt quilt using your directions and I had a question: how wide is your fleece? I got some from Wal-Mart (I think it was about 1 1/2 yards wide), but it wasn’t quite wide enough for my entire quilt. I’m guessing that you need the fleece backing to be one single piece? Thanks!

  12. I absolutely loved this entry. I made a tshirt quilt with my aunt a few years ago, and she had to take over the project for me because the instructions I was looking at were WAY too complicated for my sewing level! I’m now making one for my boyfriend and just realized the fleece I have is not wide enough–I appreciate your comment about sewing two pieces of fleece together! I was nervous it wouldn’t look okay but I’m determined to finish it!! Thanks!!

    • Heat and bond is slightly different than interfacing. Honestly, I don’t know if it will work or not! From what I know of it, heat and bond is pretty thick like cardstock, so it might make your quilt kind of stiff and unbending. Interfacing for apparel is really sheer and light – it’s just an extra layer for the shirts to stay flat. I would look it up or ask the ladies at Joann’s…they are the masters of all things sewing. 🙂 Good luck!

  13. This is awesome! I am about to attempt my first t-shirt blanket and I have been looking at soo many tutorials! I bought a plastic grid to use when cutting out the shirts but a plastic sheet from home depot would have been so much cheaper! Thanks for the great tips!

  14. Wow, your instructions are awesome! I’m working on a blanket right following your instructions and so far so good…and fun! I used a Joan Fabrics 50% off coupon and bought a rotary cutter which is great for cutting both t shirts and interfacing. Fast and easy. Then bought a $8 pc of clear plexy glass from Home Depot as you recommended and cut it with a blade to a 12 x 12 pc and used that on a little bit thinker pc of plastic to cut everything the shirts and interfacing. Lots of sewing going on here now. Thanks for sharing this information with us!

  15. The first thing I noticed about your tutorial was all the band shirts that you had! I was at the Collegiate Marching Band Festival when you were! I’m a tenor sax player from Bloomsburg University!!
    I’ve been wanting to make a t-shirt quilt for a really long time and a friend of mine directed me to your tutorial! I cannot wait to start this project over my upcoming spring break…all the excitement! 🙂

  16. Getting ready to make my second T-shirt quilt and your suggestions will be SO helpful. I would like to make a suggestion – get some large safety pins and pin your whole quilt together with them when you lay the top onto the fleece. It really helps, and saves time when you are ready to sew down the seam lines. The quilt stays together and you don’t have to keep adjusting it. The large safety pins are easy to see so you don’t sew over them, and when you are ready to take them out.

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